Mount Cook National Park

Tasman Glacier Lake

Tasman Glacier Lake

When people ask us what our favourite place in New Zealand was, Mount Cook National Park definitely ranks among the top five spots of our travel! The combination of Lake Pukaki’s turquoise water, a bright blue sky, golden grassland and snow topped grey mountains was just incredible in the afternoon sun. We must have stopped a million times during the drive along Lake Pukaki to Aoraki Mount Cook village and couldn’t stop taking pictures (even more so after we discovered the ‘dramatic’ filter in our camera).

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We had not booked any accommodation for Aoraki village when we finally arrived and decided against camping (which was a very wise decision, considering it was freezing cold with strong winds all throughout the night and the next day). Instead we checked in at the Mt Cook Backpacker Lodge with following conversation:

  • Us:     “Good afternoon, how are you doing? We would like to book a double room for tonight, please.”
  • Staff:   “Good afternoon, sorry we’re fully booked.”
  • Us:       “Huh! But your website says that you still have rooms available.”
  • Staff:    [without looking at the computer] “No sorry, we’re all booked out.”
  • Us:     [showing her the booking website on our iPad] “Well, could you please check again, since you still have vacancy in the internet!” [she’s finally checking their system]
  • Staff:    “Oh you’re right, we still have a double room available” [surprise surprise]
  • Us:       “Great! We would like to book that room for tonight then, please”

Apparently it was the end of her shift, but WTF ??????

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After quickly putting our stuff in the room and getting out some warm clothes we drove to White Horse Hill for a fantastic alpine sunset at Mount Cook. During the short walk to the viewing point somebody told us how incredibly lucky we were with the weather, because apparently it had rained (and even snowed at higher altitudes) the last two days and only cleared up in the afternoon, when we arrived.

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Returning to our backpacker we decided to add another night to our stay to have some time for hiking the next day and were able to get a really sweet deal. Have I mentioned that they were not the brightest staff we have met, yet?

One night accommodation:  $135

Glacier explorer package:    $510
(includes two nights, dinner and a drink for two and boat trip on Tasman glacier lake)

In the evening the staff didn’t realise that we already had had two complimentary beers at the bar and gave us two more pints for dinner. The boat trip was cancelled the next day and we got a $290 refund (after it took two people ten minutes with a calculator to confirm the refund value that was in fact printed on the voucher all along). –> In the end we spent $85 for the second night including dinner and four pints of Monteiths 🙂

Next morning we started really early for the Hooker Valley walk on the foot of Mount Cook. What you cannot see on the pictures below is that it was freezing cold with gale force wind gusts blowing through the valley floor (which was also the reason why the boat trip in the neighbouring Tasman valley was cancelled later that day). The views of the surrounding glaciers and icebergs swimming in Hooker Glacier lake was was definitely worth the windy walk!

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When we found out in the afternoon that our glacier explorer boat tour on Tasman Glacier Lake was cancelled, we decided to drive there for some hiking anyway. Turned out it was not nearly as spectacular as the brochures had us believe and there was not a single iceberg in the water that day! In the brochures the boat is literally cruising between Titanic sized floating ice boulders. Boy, were we glad that we hadn’t spent all that money for a boat cruise on a grey lake 😉

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It was cloudy, grey and cold when we left Mount Cook National Park the next morning, but the thermometer seemed to jump some 10°C when we reached the southern end of Lake Pukaki and caught a breathtaking farewell view of Mt Cook in the distance.

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Shag Point, giant marbles and highland salmon

Dunedin to Mt CookOn the coastal highway north of Dunedin the road sign to ‘Shag Point’ peaked our interest and we just had to check out where this was going 🙂 It turned out to be quite a normal little lookout with lots of fur seals and seagulls, but we would still like to know how that place got it’s name? And how many stupid tourists drive to that place just because of that road sign?

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A short trip further north is Moeraki Beach, where a dozen huge round boulders are strewn around the beach like giant marbles. The perfect setting for some (stupid) pictures and some amazing landscape shots.

Moeraki Boulders

Moeraki Boulders landscape.
The last pit stop of the day was at High Country Salmon, one of the world’s highest salmon farms. Since Bea had some problems to carry a whole fish back to our car, we stocked up on salmon sushi, hot smoked salmon (our favourite) and cold smoked salmon instead 🙂

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Dunedin

Dunedin TartanDunedin Coat of ArmsDunedin is New Zealand’s most Scottish city with its own Tartan and everything. And true enough … in the evenings we heard bagpipes playing in the distance from our youth hostel window.

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We spent the most relaxing three days in our room at “Hagrid’s Hut” – the old coach house of Hogwartz Youth Hostel – which was easily the cutest hostel accommodation we had in all our time in New Zealand! Nice room, fantastic bathroom and comfy kitchen plus our very own ‘closet under the stairs’ 🙂 And on top of everything else we shared the cottage with Nicole and Philip – a lovely couple from Switzerland who are on a world trip as well. Plenty of time to share travel stories over some beer or wine in the evening and catch up on the Lord of the Rings trilogy (a word of advise if you’re used to watching the special extended edition: it’s really annoying to watch the ‘normal’ length movies again. There are sooo many scenes missing that it’s not funny any more). On Saturday the four of us explored the farmer’s market together before having a nice coffee at the old Victorian train station.

 

Otago Settler’s museum with interesting, weird and funny items from early Scottish settlers until more recent household items (like vintage fridges or 3’5 inch floppy disks):

St Clair Beach near St Kilda (and just like in Melbourne they even had a Dalgety Street):

One afternoon we ventured out to Otago Peninsula trying to catch a glimpse of Larnach Castle, New Zealand’s only castle. Unfortunately you cannot see thee castle from any vantage point in the vicinity and we didn’t want to spend $56 entrance fee either – so no castle for us that day. When we continued our round trip of the peninsula we suddenly realised that we forgot to fill up our car and were running seriously low on gas with no petrol station anywhere on the peninsula 😦 our bloody GPS suggested the nearest gas station right on the other side of the harbour, too bad our car can’t swim! So we quickly turned around and drove veeeery slowly back to Dunedin barely reaching the closest gas station.

Getting up on our last day in Dunedin we found a lovely farewell note from Nicole and Philip at the breakfast table and they peeked out of their room for a very warm goodbye. All the best to you on your travels!! We’re enjoy reading your blog very much!!

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Penguins, dolphins and a curious possum

Curio Bay sunset

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yellow-eyed penguin

The penguin family didn’t care too much about the rope that was laid out to keep the few tourists at bay and happily jumped right in front of the cameras.
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When we returned to our tent in the dark we were half joking that now would be the perfect time for possums to get run over by cars when this little fella jumped into the beam of our torches. I almost thought that he was about to take a nibble at Bea when he looked at her like that, but then he reconsidered and scurried back into the bushes.

The next morning breakfast was a bit hurried, because Bea was looking forward to the real reason for our trip to the Catlins: some people we met on our trip had mentioned that you could swim with a resident pod of Hector dolphins in Porpoise Bay right at the beach, if you are lucky. Bea + dolphins = 🙂 And sure enough … there were four or five dolphins cruising the beach up and down, not really minding the few crazy people shivering in the ice cold water to get a close glimpse of them.

A wetsuit would have been mighty fine that day (Bea stayed almost an hour in the icy cold water), but we were more than happy to see these dolphins right there at ‘their’ beach for free instead of spending a couple hundred dollars for a boat tour in Kaikoura.

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The Catlins

With little more than a week left before we had to be at the (already postponed) ferry in Picton, we realised that we had to get some miles on the road in the next few days. From Manapouri we enjoyed the beautiful scenery of Southland on the way to Te Waewae Bay on the south coast.

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From Te Waewae we drove straight through Invercargill, which had been described as rather boring by nearly everybody we met, and also ignored Bluff, which is not really the southern most point of mainland New Zealand after all. Instead we left the main highway right after Invercargill and turned east into the rugged and magnificent coastline of the Catlins on the south east corner of New Zealand.
CatlinsCatlins

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After visiting some lazy seals at Waipapa Lighthouse we stopped at Slope Point – the southern most point of mainland New Zealand … and quite boring 🙂


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That night we chose a campground on the tiny peninsula right between Curio Bay and Porpoise Bay, that offered great sunset views and was walking distance to a yellow-eyed penguin colony living in Curio Bay. The next morning we were hoping to spot a resident Hector dolphin pod in Porpoise Bay which was just a short walk to the beach on the other side of the camp ground. Due to the large amount of pictures we’ll write a separate post on these animal adventures.

Along the way up north we stopped at McLean Falls for a nice little bush walk and both wished we could continue our trip on the Harley parked outside of “Le Frog” café.

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Further up the coast we found a cute little picnic spot near Nugget Point for our afternoon tea with smoked salmon and curry onion bread. Nugget Point got it’s name from the huge round boulders strewn around the surrounding ocean like giant gold nuggets. Would be really nice to find a gold nugget that size, eh? And of course these rocks were home to yet another fur seal colony sleeping in the afternoon sun or splashing around in the water.

From Nugget Point it was only a short drive to our final destination for the day: Dunedin.

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Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound, rainy sounds

rainy sounds routeSometimes the weather in New Zealand just isn’t fair! Hiking the Routeburn Track in rain and fog one day … beautiful sunshine for the drive from Glenorchy to Te Anau the next day … and then rain and clouds again the day after when we were driving into Milford Sound. This drive is supposed to be one of the most scenic roads in all of New Zealand … what they forgot to add is that it’s raining two out of three days in Fjordland and apparently we picked those two days for our visit.


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Seeing all this water cascading down the mountains certainly was a unique view, but it would have been nice to actually see the Milford Sound instead of just some shadows in the grey clouds. So after a 10 minute walk in the rain and a hot coffee to warm up afterwards there was not much else to do and we returned back to Te Anau where the sun was shining again – hmpf!

Oh, I almost forgot to mention that I ran over a water faucets at our camp ground in Te Anau that morning to even the score with Bea’s hawk encounter 😉 When we rushed to the office to report that half the camp ground is about to be flooded by a gushing water geyser they only replied that they are used to disasters like that and will have a look sometime. Ohhkayy … well our tent was still there when returned in the evening so apparently they did fix the pipe on time.

The next morning we drove to Manapouri where we had booked an overnight boat cruise for Doubtful Sound. Well first it was a 45 minute ferry ride across Lake Manapouri to Manapouri power station, New Zealand’s largest hydro power station built over 100m below water level into the mountain. Then we took another one hour bus tour over Wilmot Pass before we finally went aboard the Fjordland Navigator that would take us out into the sound.

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The shared 4-bed bunk cabins were surprisingly neat and spacious … the two guys we were sharing it with could have been a bit more fun though.


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Back on deck we enjoyed the scenic cruise, always hoping to spot some of the rare bottlenose dolphins in the dark brown water of the sound. This dark water is very unique to New Zealand’s fjordland were a layer of 5-10 meters of rain water, brown from plant sediment and filtering out most sunlight, sits atop a deep layer of cold saltwater creating an environment that resembles deep sea conditions.

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Despite the cold weather we joined the kayak excursion into the sound – which was a lucky choice because the guys in the rubber dinghies were apparently eaten alive by sandflies and we hardly had any.


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Our skipper brought us all the way to the mouth of the fjord where seals were lazing on the rocks and some fairly decent waves were crushing against the coast. Too bad it was cloudy and we missed the sunset in this beautiful location. The amazing dinner buffet that followed definitely made up for the sunset and we had a fun evening with Tom and Charlotte from England at our table.

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In the morning the Fjordland Navigator sailed into one of the side arms of the sound for a one-minute “Sound of Silence” where all machines were stopped until all water ripples disappeared and everybody had to be really quiet – how very peaceful!

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Sadly we did not see any dolphins on the way back either, but the nature guide on board did spot some tiny blue penguins faaar faaar away (then again she probably could have told us whatever she wanted about these distant ripples in the water if she wanted).

Back on land the bus brought us back over the hill to Manapouri power station and the ferry took us to sunny Manapouri. Why couldn’t we have that kind of sunshine in Doubtful Sound?

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Queenstown, Glenorchy and a lot of Middle Earth

Queenstown - Glenorchy routeOne hour south of Wanaka our next stop was Queenstown, adrenalin capital of the South Island and probably the first place in New Zealand where we saw more travellers from England than from Germany. Despite a population of just over 20.000 people, Queenstown’s central location in the South Island means that EVERY visitor, backpacker and tourist will eventually pass through this little town. After a couple of weeks in Golden Bay and on the West Coast it felt almost crowded and it became ridiculously hard to find a place to stay since we didn’t book anything in advance.

After hours of browsing the web and calling around, we spent the first night in a lodge where a Kiwi school had their annual family outing and kids where running, jumping and screaming around everywhere. The next day our desperate search for an alternative brought us to the Spa B&B in Frankton, which was a nice mix of Austrian managed B&B and Japanese massage Spa where we stayed the next two nights. Since neither of us felt like skydiving, paragliding or any other adrenalin adventure and it was raining most of the time we spent a lot of time enjoying the coffee in the Old Man Rock Cafe and watching other tourists 🙂

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Queenstown booking

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On Friday (Valentine’s Day) the accommodation situation in Queenstown collapsed altogether and since our travel budget couldn’t afford $1.000 per night we decided it was time for some camping anyway and headed to Glenorchy and the Dart Valley.

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The drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy along Lake Wakatipu was one of the most beautiful sceneries of our entire New Zealand trip! Bright blue sky, the sun reflecting in the emerald blue lake with snow topped mountains in the background … what an amazing view!

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No wonder Peter Jackson chose this place for several Lord of the Rings film locations and Isengard, Ilithien (where Frodo and Sam see the Oliphaunts) and the Misty Mountains where all filmed in this area:

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Saruman did not exaclty conjure a snowstorm or throw boulders at us, but the weather was rather weird in this place: we arrived in bright blue sunshine when suddenly swirls of dust where hovering in the riverbed and a particularly nasty gust of wind broke one of our tent poles 😦

this fix surprisingly held for the rest of our trip through New Zealand

this fix surprisingly held for the rest of our trip through New Zealand

After we moved our tent closer to the forrest the rest of the evening was nice and sunny again, but the next morning was all clouds, rain and grey:

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Not exactly the weather we were hoping for since Bea had booked a Lord of the Rings Trilogy Loop horse ride (for very experienced riders only) and I wanted to hike part of the Routeburn Track, another one of the 10 Great Walks of New Zealand. Apparently it wasn’t all that bad down in the valley, but the further up I walked into the mountains the worse the weather got. Supposedly there is a lake and a conical hill up there somewhere, but when I reached Harris Saddle shelter it felt like the hut was hovering in the clouds. After a quick lunch break with some other miserable hikers hiding in the shelter it was time to turn back and the further down I walked the better the weather got again. Imagine my surprise when I met Bea’s old boss and his wife halfway down the mountain … the world is small indeed, isn’t it?

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Bea had a bit more luck with the weather, but had an ‘adventure’ of her own on her way to Dart Stables for her Trilogy Loop. After kindly dropping her hubby at the start of the Routeburn Track, she was in a bit of a hurry to get to her horse track on time (our stupid GPS claimed she would need 45 minutes and had only 25 minutes …). Suddenly a hawk materialised on the road out of nowhere, snacking on some roadkill and instead of simply flying away decided to hug the front bumper of our car. When she couldn’t see anything in the rear view mirror and was too much in a hurry to stop she thought that maybe the hawk had gotten away after all. Well at least until she saw the driver of the next oncoming car stare at her front bumper with an incredulous look on his face 🙂 When she arrived at Dart Stables after only 15 minutes drive she was still in too much of a hurry and shock to do anything about the poor bird and just left it there and rushed into the stable … until a guy walked in five minutes later asking who was driving the car with the hawk on the front bumper and ultimately helped her to remove the dead bird *lol* When Bea picked me up in the afternoon and told me the story I couldn’t stop laughing 🙂

It certainly was an exhausting and exiting day for both of us and we enjoyed our best camping dinner so far that night (NO, we did not throw the hawk on the barbecue 🙂 we had lamb cutlets with potatoes and veggies).

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Lake Wanaka

travel route to WanakaIt was time to say goodbye to the West Coast, but not before we had a final taste of a signature West Coast delicacy: whitebait. These small transparent fish are fried with some egg, salt and pepper to a round pattie and served pretty much like a mini fish burger 🙂

Haast Pass (that was partially washed out and closed during nights for road works) led us to Wanaka for a couple of days of blissful chillaxing.

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This side of the Southern Alps was surprisingly warm and Bea used the opportunity for a quick dip in the ice cold Blue Pools.

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Wanaka is a perfectly laid back small town on the southern shore of Lake Wanaka and not nearly as hyped-up as nearby Queenstown. We enjoyed doing nothing much for two days other than sleeping in and enjoying the occasional coffee or beer on the lakefront 🙂

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After a road trip to rather unimpressive Lindis Pass (“Hey the road is going down again … guess we must have missed the pass”) we stopped at Wanaka Have-a-shot on the way back for a round of target shooting and clay bird shooting. Let’s just say I would always think twice before messing with Bea …

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The next morning we were just driving to Backcountry Saddle Expeditions for another horse riding expedition when we saw these two hawks fighting over a rabbit they caught:

This time we were riding Appaloosa horses with western saddle on a farm in Cardrona. Do you notice how that Dalmatian looks a lot like my horse in small? And while we were still joking around how it was unsuccessfully chasing the rabbits on the farm it suddenly turned up with one between his teeth proudly carrying it all the way back to the stable. Who else is hungry now?

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Stoned at the beach

The last section of the West Coast highway took us from Fox to the rather unimpressive village of Haast, named after the German explorer who was brown nosing the Austrian emperor by naming a glacier after him 🙂

On the way we passed Bruce Bay, where hundreds of white pebbles from the driftwood beach are covered in messages from all over the world:

Monro Beach a little further down the road was another amazing tip we got from Emma at the iSite back in Motueka. An easy one hour walk through dense rainforest took us to a beautiful pebble beach. Maybe it is a good thing that it is not really mentioned in the Lonely Planet and we almost passed the tiny road sign, because there were only a handful of other people there with us:

Inspired by our freedom camping the night before we were eager to find another cool camping spot close to Haast. Too bad the beachside spot we found was either too sandy or too rocky for us to put our tent up. In hindsight we should have just stayed there anyway and slept on the sand, because the only other option was a very disappointing hostel in Haast. At least the pub next door was good and we spent the evening with spare ribs and beer watching the New Zealand All Blacks win the Wellington Rubgy Sevens.

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Fox Glacier and early birds at Lake Matheson

Originally we had planned to spend the night after Franz Josef at Gillespie Beach camp ground near Fox Glacier with a romantic sundowner on the beach. Apparently we were not the only ones who had that brilliant idea and when we reached the end of the 20km unsealed gravel road we arrived at an hopelessly overcrowded little camp ground swarming with 18-20 year old backpackers (most of which were probably German). Not exactly the remote wilderness camping we had expected 😦

In the end it turned out to be really lucky decision to turn around and drive the 20km gravel road back though, because we ultimately found this amazing ‘freedom camping’ location with glacier mountain views, a small river nearby and a herd of cows as neighbours.

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This location was even closer to Lake Matheson which is supposed to have a mirror like surface allowing incredible sunrise pictures if you’re lucky. Well I guess we were lucky when we got up at 5:00am (!!!) and arrived at the lakeside viewpoint with a small handful of other early birds just in time for following photos:

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When we came back from the lake walk it must have been the first time in our life that we arrived at a cafe before opening time (as opposed to just before or after closing time). We even beat three large tour busses arriving at 8:00 sharp spitting out hordes of tourists who all missed the beautiful sunset … Haha! Lazy buggers couldn’t get out of bed on time, ey 😉

Then again, we weren’t used to be up and ready that early either and it took us some time to figure out of what to do with the rest of the day. Well, since we already were in the neighbourhood, we spent the rest of the morning walking to Fox Glacier, where the tracks allowed you to get a bit closer to the glacier than at Franz Josef. Access to the actual glacier surface was restricted to guided tours with grampons though and we had to stay behind the ropes …

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