Wow, no issues on our Air Vanuatu flight from Port Vila to Tanna Island. This airline is getting better and better *lol*
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Tanna is definitely one of the least developed islands we have visited on our vacation until now. A few villages scattered across the island are connected with gravel roads or small bush paths. There are no taxis or public transport here and if you’re not one of the privileged few people owning a four-wheel drive (normal cars would not get far on these roads) you have to walk on this island. Shopping is limited to three supermarkets and a fruit and veggie market and petrol is sold in plastic bottles along the road. Various tribes are still living according to their traditional kastom, some even still practising black magic, while followers of the John Frum Movement never tire of waiting for the return of their (American) saviour bearing an abundance of wealth for them. Above all Tanna is home to smoking Mount Yasur! So buckle up! These are going to be some action packed days.
Tom, our host at Rocky Ridge Bungalows, was waiting for us at Whitegrass International Airport to take us to the ‘resort’. After about two thirds of the drive along gravel roads the power lines suddenly disappeared and we learned that Tom’s village was not yet connected to the power grid. Oha, no electricity? But Tom assured us that he would be running a generator from around 5 to 10pm each night for lights and to charge our electronic equipment. Huh! He also told us that he built this beautiful rustic resort himself together with two of his sons and is still working on a new bungalow when he doesn’t have guests. Unfortunately he had decided to build the unfinished new unit directly in front of units 1 and 2 blocking their sea view … good thing we were staying in lucky unit 3 with perfect view of the ocean 🙂
Rocky Ridge Bungalows from the water
welcome coconut
Rocky Ridge Bungalows
Our cute little bungalow #3 … the one with the nice ocean view 🙂
home is where the coconut is …
The main attractions of the resort were cat Chips with her two kittens Gravy and Kathy who were constantly trolling around the communal area. That trio was either playing, sleeping or loudly begging for food during home cooked dinners from Tom’s wife Margaret. It was impossible not to share some of your food with these skinny little kitties and we certainly got plenty of cat-time during our stay at Rocky Ridge!
Chips with Gravy and Kathy
Gravy with Bea’s new cat-face-recognition function on the camera
cheeky Kathy
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Since Bea had caught some mean fever/tummy bug in Efate and wasn’t up for adventure that day, I went on a boat trip to Lamnap cave alone with another couple from Rocky Ridge. Through an almost fully submerged gap in the cliff face we could dive into this rather large cave that was illuminated through a small opening in the ceiling and a deep blue glow from the entrance to the ocean! The cave itself had not much to offer, but the beams of sunlight under water were just magnificent!
boat ride along Tanna’s beautiful coastline up to Lemnap Cave
our boat
Who can see the entrance to the cave?
Hold your breath … dive … and hope there is a cave at the end of the tunnel
sunlight seeping through the water at the cave entrance
with all these water drops on the lens the camera had a hard time to focus down here
we could glimpse a small window of sun and trees through a hole in the ceiling
rays of sunlight under water
this was just magical
the way out … at least now we know what’s coming on the other side
paddle paddle paddle …
… and dive!
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The next day Bea was feeling better and it was time for some island sightseeing: First stop was the primary school where Margaret was teaching English and we just wished we had thought about bringing some toys or school equipment for the kids! They were certainly not camera shy and seemed to enjoy the short break from class 🙂 Apparently some of them WALK impressive two hours each morning and afternoon to get from their remote jungle village to school and back again. Even with the ocean as a playground right outside of school you have to admire that level of dedication!
Tanna village school
Bea and the little ones 🙂
we just couldn’t get over the fact that some of these dark skinned kids had blonde hair – sooo cute!
island style classroom
epic schoolyard
When we asked for the side trip to see the “Tanna Coffee Factory” we were actually expecting something different … like a factory … or coffee? Well apparently “Tanna Coffee” is only grown in Tanna and some other Vanuatu islands but the actual processing and roasting is done in Port Vila on Efate. All we did find in Tanna was a warehouse with rows upon rows of bags with dried coffee beans waiting for transport to Port Vila.
Tanna coffee tree
Tanna coffee berries
Tanna coffee beans
With a big “Tanna Coffee Factory” sign up the road we expected a bit more than this warehouse
“So why are these bags full of coffee beans sitting in Tanna, when the roasting factory is in Port Vila?” – “Transport in Vanuatu can sometimes be a bit difficult” – *lol* go figure
Fortunately the next stop was more impressive: where else in the world can you take a 15 minute walk under and through A SINGLE tree? Introducing the world’s largest Banyan tree covering an area of 200 at 100 metres and still growing! This giant stands some 80 metres tall and is still producing extensive new root structures to support the weight of the growing foliage. And if you cut one root (to build your village hut for example), it’ll just grow five more at the same spot! Our guide from the local village (with a hilarious giggle with everything he said) easily climbed halfway across the tree and introduced us to the all natural Banyan rope swing.
The world’s largest Banyan tree
this is all just ONE big tree
Bea and the big Banyan
a small part of the root structure
roots! more roots! they are everywhere!
At the local village market we got some yummy fresh Pomelo before heading back towards Rocky Ridge Bungalows. No need to stock up on coconuts this time, because they were growing just outside of our bungalow. On the way home Tom dropped us at the Evergreen Resort for a late lunch and some afternoon snorkelling. We were hoping to see some wild turtles that supposedly live around there but the afternoon sun was reflecting terribly in the water. We were already on the way back when we suddenly spotted a big turtle gliding across the ocean floor 20 or 30 metres below us. YAY mission accomplished!
It was already getting dark when we finally returned to our resort island style: on foot
Tanna island kids
“Hey I want to stay in THAT tree house” – “But what if I have to go to the toilet at night?” – DUH
Gone walkabout 